Wing mirror problem

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tatoodav
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:00 pm

Re: Wing mirror problem

Post by tatoodav »

hi a have a great way to fix the mirror for £5.99 mine was hanging down so took if off and had a tube of spoiler&panel fixing bond.stick it in your deco gun pipe the bonding into damaged joints dont be shy with the bonding as it drys in like rubber just use a wee blade to scrape the rubber bonding off an polish up and like new when replaced back on to my pug 206cc. the only thing is you cant close it in but it would be in correct possition and your remote in car will still work glass just hold mirror in position that you need it in for your car with elastic bands glad to help

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GrandadMonkey
Posts: 3576
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 8:00 am
Location: Leicestershire

Re: Wing mirror problem

Post by GrandadMonkey »

Well done. Thanks for sharing that tip.
Ron
"If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
Golf 1.5 Tsi Evo SE Nav Estate Atlantic Blue
Polo 1.0 SEL DSG Reef Blue (wife's)
(Previously owned a 2005 206CC 1.6 Allure Moonstone for 10 years)

tatoodav
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:00 pm

abs rings

Post by tatoodav »

just got ma abs rings done the two front ones what a diffrence when aplying my brakes defore at the trafic lights it was shuddering.a had got worried because a was hearing a noise from front wheel to like a grinding when brake was aplyed to.been told its very comen at the moment it eventuly came op on my screen as a abs problem cost £120 but well worth it getting some one who knows what there doing.please dont get enyone off gumtree unless they are recomended .as a placed the add for mecanic and a wee guy turned up was droped off with a polly back and a jack watch cowboys working in teams round glasgow paisley and renfrew area Dee ps been theb best £120 spent was worried because my cars a auto lol

Enright
Posts: 452
Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:24 pm
Location: Arnold, Nottingham

Re: Wing mirror problem

Post by Enright »

You'll pay top whack for 206 CC specific mirrors, but you don't need to. It IS possible to modify later model hatchback mirrors to fit. Being as the most commonly broken parts are either the main body, or the triangular-shaped piece at the bottom, you may not even have to buy electric ones. It’s a bit of a Chinese puzzle, and requires some modification, but only a little – 2 small points to be precise.
If I had known it was such a hot topic I would have taken pictures as I did it, but I’ll try to go through the steps that I recently followed from memory:

Disassembly:
1. Remove your mirror assembly from the car (3 screws (or 4 on the passenger side) behind the tweeter panel on the inside).
2. Remove the mirror glass. This is just secured by 4 clips that attach it to the motor-assembly and it simply pops off, but it feels like a bit of a strain, so watch out. Don’t forget to pull apart the heated element terminals (if present).
3. Take the painted trim cover off the top. To do this you have to get a thin blade inside the front edge and lever it gently upwards until it pops off, but be careful, because the clips that hold it to the main body are very fragile. I had to use double-sided number plate tape upon reassembly of one of mine.
4. The cover you have just removed reveals 2 torx screws at the top, and there are 2 more on the bottom face as well. Remove them all.
5. There are also 3 really small-headed torx screws by the motors which must come out.
6. Now the motor assembly should be free. The rear cover of it pulls off, and then you can remove the 3 terminal plug.
7. With the motor out, the main cover should lift off. Note the routing of the wiring – take a pic if necessary.
8. The last 3 torx screws that you need to remove hold the triangular-shaped piece on the bottom face to the bottom of the mirror assembly’s main pivot point. 2 are easily seen but recessed fairly deeply, and one is hidden by an oval foam/rubber grommet.
9. Once the 3 screws in “8.” are out, the triangular-shaped bottom piece and the pivot mechanism will be released from what I will call the “shoulder”, and you can thread the wires out of it.

As briefly mentioned before: the most easily broken parts are the main body and the triangular-shaped bottom piece.
I think that the main body is a common part, but the pivot mechanism which is part of the bottom triangular-shaped piece differs slightly, and it is this from your donor assembly which needs a bit of modification in order to fit.
When you try to match this part to the shoulder from your car, you will see that while the diameters are identical, the bit that does the swivelling has an extra bit to it around the radius. This needs to be cut off (I used a serrated spamspam knife which worked fine), but leave the “spokes” at either end of it because they neatly fit into 2 notches on the shoulder.
The only other mod is that there is a small triangular lug that sticks up from the aluminium part of the shoulder joint. I used an angle-grinder to flatten this off.
Now you should find that the shoulder joint all fits together neatly.
After that you can work your way back up from “8.” To “1.” – the only difference you may find is that you have to run the wires from the shoulder through the middle of the pivot.

Best thing is to try to keep the mixing and matching of bits to a minimum – I dismantled 4 mirrors at once and thoroughly confused myself! Try to only do 2, or at most 3, at once.
BCingU,
Neil. ;)

Mine: Daily driver; Mk2 MG ZS+ (TD). Current projects; 2 x Lotus Elan SE Turbos
Previous project: 56 plate 206 CC 1.6 Sport (with added Allure!)