Peugeot 206 54plate problems after gasket change

[Deaks]

Hi all,

Basically the car had a ruined gasket and a lot of coolant was going into the engine, so we aligned the holes in the cam sprocket and crankshaft and replaced it and put the belt back on. Car ran fine after but lacked power and shattered occasionally on the test run. We presumed it was a tooth out maybe. We took the belt back off but stupidly we got ourselves in a muddle after going the wrong way and then we were over correcting.

As it stands we keep getting the P0500, P0110 and P0115 error codes which are veihcle speed sensor malfunction, air intake temperature sensor malfunction and coolant temperature sensor malfunction. The car runs very rough, and will not idle and sounds like it is misfiring. Before the gasket change because of the coolant leak I had engine management light on and the catalytic converter engine light flashing symptom. By taking of the catalytic converter it runs a bit better and it looks very blocked.

The crankshaft sensor looks clean but after reading about the firing is controlled by the ecu not by the timing of the rocker, I'm confused and I'm in a real muddle in how to time the crank and cam so that they fire in the correct order. When I clear the error codes, and then turn her over and the turn off. The same three codes appear again, without the car moving.

Possibly ecu problem? Or timing? Or coils?

Really irritated this gasket change has turned into such a job lot. any ideas or advice is well appreciated...

Thanks.

[Deaks]

Oh and it is a 1.4liter petrol

[Capncol]

None of those codes should cause the problems you have.
Did you change the (I'm guessing) head gasket yourself? Torqued properly and in sequence?
What were the symptoms of the gasket failure?

See this thread on how to time it as the engine is basically the same as the 1.6 http://www.peugeot206cc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11459

[Deaks]

Yes I change it myself, the head and engine block was scraped clean and gasket sealed, the coolant problem is completely resolved and it was torqued to the levels stated in the Haynes manual which I think is 15nm, then 20nm then angle tighten 200deg. In the sequence stated in manual which is basically Center outwards. Thanks for the link, I will see what that does.

Chris

[Deaks]

Also that guide it to time it if the belt is in the correct position already. I've had the head cover off to see the rockers, and locked off the crankshaft with the the lock hole by the crank sensor and turned the cam over until cylinder one (inlet and exhaust) is "on the Wobblies" which is before the power stroke. When the sensor detects the missing tooth on the crank, what position should cylinder one be in? And should the two locking holes for the crank and cam be locked when cylinder one is "on the Wobblies" or should the be locked at a different stage.

Thanks again

[Capncol]

The guide works whether belt is right or wrong.Don't worry whether no1 is rocking, I think you are looking for issues that aren't there. Just go by the timing holes and it will be right.
Have the crank about 20 degrees off the crank locking hole, set the cams, then bring the crank into time. This will avoid accidental piston to valve contact.

locked off the crankshaft with the the lock hole by the crank sensor and turned the cam over until cylinder one (inlet and exhaust) is "on the Wobblies"

Don't turn the cams with the crank at TDC. You may accidently damage the valves