Matt, you have a Kenwood DB series Subwoofer don't you?
have you had any probs with it? I had one installed (a 12", the DB1205DB I think) and it blew after 3 days. they fitted another one and that blew after 4 days. Since then, I've had a sound something or other in there (about a month now) and thats been fine. Only thing is though i don't know what the specs are on it compared to the Kenny as they didn't give me the box or manual for it, I only know it was £50 more than the DB (and I didn't pay the extra by the way).
Also, how did you get that blue neon in the boot? Is it easy and cheap?
FAO MattB
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MattB
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Hi mate
I've got the 10" sub - KFC-W1005DB. I've not had any problems with it at all.
It may be that the box your sub is in is the wrong size (I'm assuming it's sealed here rather than ported) - possibly too small. So when you power the sub hard, the magnet is pushing the cone out hard and fast, but because there's not enough air in the box to compress/expand, the cone can't move enough and is breaking. I'm just guessing though as I'm far from an expert!
The manual I have for the 10" also has the specs for the one you had. It recommends a sealed box of no less than 0.8 cu ft. The speaker itself is 300W RMS/1200W Max - what amp do you have powering it?
As for the blue neon, it's actually more of a camera trick! The only neon in there comes from the amp and it isn't that bright. The rest of the blue glow must have come as a reflection from the body of the car - it was dark when I took the picture so the camera opened the shutter for quite some time to let all available light in.
However, you can buy neon strips fairly cheaply from lots of lpaces (Halfords etc, as well as online car audio places) and I reckon it would be very easy to hook them up to the power for the existing boot light.
Hope some of this helps!
I've got the 10" sub - KFC-W1005DB. I've not had any problems with it at all.
It may be that the box your sub is in is the wrong size (I'm assuming it's sealed here rather than ported) - possibly too small. So when you power the sub hard, the magnet is pushing the cone out hard and fast, but because there's not enough air in the box to compress/expand, the cone can't move enough and is breaking. I'm just guessing though as I'm far from an expert!
The manual I have for the 10" also has the specs for the one you had. It recommends a sealed box of no less than 0.8 cu ft. The speaker itself is 300W RMS/1200W Max - what amp do you have powering it?
As for the blue neon, it's actually more of a camera trick! The only neon in there comes from the amp and it isn't that bright. The rest of the blue glow must have come as a reflection from the body of the car - it was dark when I took the picture so the camera opened the shutter for quite some time to let all available light in.
However, you can buy neon strips fairly cheaply from lots of lpaces (Halfords etc, as well as online car audio places) and I reckon it would be very easy to hook them up to the power for the existing boot light.
Hope some of this helps!
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toot
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Thanks Matt. not a clue on the size of the box as I had an installer do it for me.
I noticed the RMS of the sub and I thought, being 1,200W max, that it would have a higher RMS. The Amp I'm using is a Kenwood which is 800W max and I have it bridged. the manual reckons it does upto 460W RMS when bridged so I take that to mean its too powerful. the installer says though that with Kenwood stuff the max power is normally what it goes by so 800W on a 1,200W sub should be fine, despite RMS. The gain isn't all the way up on it either. I'd prefer to have the DB on there though cos it's gorgeous, the one I've got now is a flat cone and all in black with a picture of a horse, nowhere near as sexy
I noticed the RMS of the sub and I thought, being 1,200W max, that it would have a higher RMS. The Amp I'm using is a Kenwood which is 800W max and I have it bridged. the manual reckons it does upto 460W RMS when bridged so I take that to mean its too powerful. the installer says though that with Kenwood stuff the max power is normally what it goes by so 800W on a 1,200W sub should be fine, despite RMS. The gain isn't all the way up on it either. I'd prefer to have the DB on there though cos it's gorgeous, the one I've got now is a flat cone and all in black with a picture of a horse, nowhere near as sexy
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MattB
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RMS is definitely the rating to go by as it's more an indication of the constant level of power that the sub can handle (RMS = Root Mean Squared is kind of an average). The Max rating is more like marketing spiel and shouldn't be used to match an amp to a sub (although it's worth checking anyway).
Yep an amp that gives out 460W RMS will very quickly blow a sub that can only handle 300W RMS! Your installer is talking rubbish in my opinion with regards to going by the Max power rating.
Yep an amp that gives out 460W RMS will very quickly blow a sub that can only handle 300W RMS! Your installer is talking rubbish in my opinion with regards to going by the Max power rating.