How to: Replace drop links

[EdmundIJones]

My mind has recently turns towards May where my 206cc is due it's yearly MOT. I checked last MOT documents and it had an advisory that one of the drop links had excessive play. So, a new drop link is in order.

I'm no mechanic but I'm becoming ever more confident in what I tackle and I try to write guides for people to try and give them confidence also to give simple jobs a go. Not so long ago I replaced the brake disks and pads on my car and did a normal service. I've done write ups on my Volvo XC90 also but they aren't much use here. So, just in case anyone needs help replacing a drop link here is how (and a few of my experiences!)


1. Jack the car up and rest both sides on axle stands. I've been told having the car even rather than just up on one side releases pressure and makes this job easier.

2. Locate the drop link and check the condition of the bolts, for people who don't know, this is the drop link and it's got a nut at the top and another at the bottom, the following picture shows you where to look (although doesn't show the nuts which are on the other side (sorry)


3. Un-screw the nut at the top and bottom, I don't think it makes any difference to which way around it's done, there is no real tension. I spent 10 minutes using my socket set trying to unscrew the top nut, it went around and around but didn't make any progress, it seems you either need a special tool or some thing else. After hacking things around so badly I ended up cutting the drop link off with and angle grinder... Tip: be very careful if you do this as you are cutting close to the ABS sensor cable and brake hose.


4. Once you've have got the drop link off and you've tidied the area up you can fit your new drop link in place by just lining it up and screwing on new bolts. Tighten them up and you're done.


5. Double check the tightness, put the wheels back on, drop the car off the axel stands and tighten the wheel bolts. Give the car a test drive and check that it's all okay.

Drop links are around £12-15 from ECP so I replaced both sides just to be safe. I'm sure that a garage charges about £50 to do this job per side so as I did it for £25 in total and an hours fun I'm quite happy.
If anyone has any questions, just let me know.

Ed

[Capncol]

You don't need to cut them off. Depending on type they either have two flats to accept a spanner, just between the rubber dust boot and the threaded bit, or there is a hex hole in the end of the threaded portion that will accept an allen key. These are used to stop the threaded bit turning when you undo the nut.

[EdmundIJones]

Indeed, mine were the hex version, however, the bolt was so rusted on the hex head broke up and turned into a round head so there was nothing to grip on. It wasn't ideally but the two flats would have been best.

[Enright]

Still a good guide though. Worth a Sticky?

[yorkielassy]

Thanks for this Edmund!

[Thar]

Thanks for your time and effort. I've stickied this. I'm not sure whether we should consider having a dedicated forum for sticky posts to make thing easier to find though.

[gazza82]

Buy them from a reputable source .. I had a pair of ebay once where one lasted 2 weeks ... and the other failed about six months later. The seller then changed their name ... but unfortunately he still had the same location

I bought the replacements from GSF at the time ... wasting a few quid, but couldn't be bothered to get replacements that we likely to fail again in a short time.

[EarthMummy]

Great guide!
Can I ask if that you need to mark anything on the car as to know exactly which way the new drop link goes in? I ask this because I remember reading something or hearing something to suggest - a bit like the placements on a cam belt, something had to be marked to tell you where to put it... sounds stupid when it's just a bolt and what ever - I'm sure it isn't that difficult but just asking as I have to do one for a friend very soon, her cc is on deaths door with her drop links (pretty sure it's drop links now)
From past experience, my 406 gave up a real struggle with her drop links (I only did the rear to pass an MOT, only failure) and well... that required muscles is all I can say. Have any of you found any secret tips as to get them off a little easier? (I usually soak them in WD40 for at least 10 minutes before attempting by the way)

Thanks in advance, love the pics

[EdmundIJones]

No marking needed, just make sure you put them in the same way around as the ones you took out.

[ched999uk]

Instead of cutting them off I would just use a nut splitter. Nut splitters are less than £10 for a pair. They just fit round the nut then you tighten them up and they split the nut. They don't cause any damage to the bolt or the surrounding area.

[tenpole]

Must be a common problem as I need to replace mine.

[Capncol]

Must be a common problem as I need to replace mine.

You can thank the councils for that. Lack of proper road maintenance accelerates the wear.

It's not just Peugeots, Ford focus are just as bad if not worse.

[tenpole]

I got one link on but before I could tighten it I had to down tools and take my wife to hospital as her father had turned ill rather badly with blood poisoning.
You need a 17mm spanner for the locking nut and a thin 15mm for the flats on the bolt to hold it steady.
You only need to raise one side at a time. Always use axle stands never just the jack even when using a trolley jack.
As t goes I ended up using the trolley jack to lift the roll bar into position.

[GrandadMonkey]

Our thoughts are with your wife and her poorly father. Hope he makes a full recovery quickly. Best wishes.

[tenpole]

Thank you for your kind words. He does seem to be on a recovery but last night his heart rate made the alarms go off. The drugs have kicked in now and he is stable. I managed to tighten up the drop link, unfortunately it was just spanner stress tight as I needed a deep 17mm socket for the torque wrench which I dont have. I have been promising myself for years to get a deep socket set.