Central Locking will lock but not unlock

[gazza82]

When you lock the car, if you press lock again the locks should deadlock but without any indicator notification

Haven't got that feature on my 2002 hatchback! Just flashes the lights a lot to find it in the dark!

[Shoa]

Its got 2 extra wires than I would have thought needed, so I guess it does have deadlocking on it, one for normal lock an the other for the deadlock signal on the motors.
This is a real pain for me need it done before she gets back off her cruise or she will be in my ear to get it fixed.
But without a open signal voltage nothing is going to work.
Can the BSI be change by itself or they tied to the ECU ?
It's looking like a BSI repair or change more and more.

[Slo]

Lol i can imagine, its usually wiring, folks always quick to fault the bsi but its quite a reliable piece of kit, just at the end of its expected life lol, so they change it disturbing the plugs and wiring then a few weeks down the line wiring shifts thru vibration temp etc etc and problems return.

Obviously the only way to tell is to put it in another car and see if that car does the same

Where are you in the world

Getting confused on my phone this was a reply to last message on page 1.

Gazza don't all cc's have central locking? I know not all other variants do but the op's referring to a cc

[Shoa]

I am in Ireland, so no where near anyone in the UK that has a pp2000 to check.
I just cannot see it being the wiring unless its in the loom under the dash but without a wiring diagram I am stuck because the wires change colour to grey so can only guess which is which going to the BSI.
but I have seen many relay weld themselves together so they do not work hence no clicking or the coil in them go.
I think best bet to take out the BSI and look for damage and test the relay.
But still need the schematic for the BSI to lock wiring.

[Slo]

When you lock the car does it ever make a loud beep and pop the locks open again like a doors open?

Remember this wiring crap is all multiplexed now with signal wires rather than a relayed live to operate something, your metered voltages could be reading signals rather than lock actuator voltages.

[Shoa]

No it only beeps if the door is open.
The thing is if you put the key in the lock and open it only opens that door as well not open all of them like it should.
It does not popup like a solenoid has gone, I have tried them one by one and nothing.
There are only 2 locks and the boot, boot lock is not the same just 2 wires open and close.
but I am sure if there is a close signal power of 1-3v then the same should be for open 1-3v how else will it signal to open ?

[Slo]

Boot lock doesn't open with the central locking however it can be hacked to do so as the actuator is a 2 way one so christ knows why it was made that way.

[Shoa]

I guess its a safety thing to protect your property in the boot, if the window is broken then they cannot get in to the boot so easily.

[Slo]

The thing is if you put the key in the lock and open it only opens that door as well not open all of them like it should.
It does not popup like a solenoid has gone, I have tried them one by one and nothing.

Its only going to come down to 1 of three things wiring, bsi which i doubt or lock actuators which is most likely

So either suck it up and buy some from a scrap car or it could end up costing you a fortune

You could take the bsi out and inspect it but i think that could be a waste of time and if you replaced it anyway you would also have to replace the engine ecu, lockset possibly - key certainly cos of the immobiliser chip in it, speedo clocks unless you can find a bsi with lower milage than current one as well as having it programmed to work in a cc if it came from a hatchback.....gasp

[Shoa]

Just checked the voltage on the relay on open nothing so the relay is not powering the motor for the locks.
So cannot be the motors I have taken a lock out to check the motor in it to make sure the locks work.
I got schematics for the locks now.

[Slo]

Try powering the wires that arent earthed and see if anything happens, a fuse in place would be a good idea.

[Shoa]

None are earthed it goes to the mirror then earth but use the body of the lock as the earth.
But the schematics do not show voltages, so do not know what the true voltages should be.

Tried to power the lock with a bench power supply but not enough amps but can use a battery tomorrow, I have sitting in the shed to test and put inline fuse for protection of the motor.
If nothing might buy a couple of locks from the scrappy but not holding my breath on them fixing the problem.
I done a BSI reboot but no change.

[Slo]

This might help you, it seems like all the locks are just tied directly together so a simple 2 way toggle directly from the bsi itself on wires 620 white and 621 grey.

So try those 2 wires disconnected from the bsi with 12 volt each way.
Alternatively just disconnect the bsi and power the plug on each opposite door on those pins to see if the other door and boot lock works, this will rule out wiring and more or less confirm a poorly bsi.

[Shoa]

Thanks for the diagram but its for the older pug before 2001 is not a multiplex version.
But similar to the one I got from another site but wrong wire colours and to many of them mines only a 6 wire lock.
Here is the one I got in black & white.
But I see what you are saying with the other image as it has the MR next to it to show the motor wires which it does not on the other.
Wires 620 & 6211 12v and the 622 earth.

[Slo]

Yeah theres no wire colours on multiplex cos of the van/can thing which dont make sense, have you tried powering 620 and 622? I think 6211 will be the deadlock, also noticed with mine that after locking, the deadlock option only activates while the indicators are still lit after locking, after this i have to open and lock it again if i miss it.