Low Riding Rear

[rhume]

Ok so after changing the bearings on the swing arms on the back of my Pug it is sitting very low.

The problem was that everything was so seized up that I don't think the arms were in their correct position when measured. I have about 2cm between the bump stop and the plate it lands on. The good thing is the car handles like a rollerskate and I haven't ever heard it bottom out.

Would changing the shocks improve this (they looked a bit past their best when I did the back end) as I don't fancy stripping the torsion bars back out to rotate them (they have been greased this time though)

[gazza82]

Shocks won't help .. it's the torsion bars ...

[rhume]

The feeling you get when someone confirms what you already knew but were hoping you didn't So I don't suppose anyone can tell me the standard distance between the bump stops and the plate. I bet its more than 2 cms

[gazza82]

I have feeling it's in the Haynes manual ... but I'm not where my Haynes is ... :-)

[IanL]

My Haynes says it requires special Peugeot tools and is beyond the scope of DIY.

I have found this tantalising information in Service Box (it is also on this site here):

3. Refitting
Adjust the dimension (x) of the dummy damper [ 2] :
To the value determined for ride height correction
To the value shown in data if the torsion bar is being replaced
To the value measured on removal in other cases

But I cannot find the procedure for determination of ride height correction.

It also says:

Insert the bar through the arm bracket :
In the case of ride height correction, offset the marks made on removal by the number of splines determined
In the case of a new torsion bar, find by rotation, spline by spline, the position where it enters freely 8 to 10 mm
In other cases, align the marks made on removal

But, again, no information on how to identify the number of splines.

The data gives the length of the "adjusting tool" for various engines (368mm for the TU5JP4), but It's not clear (to me, at any rate) what the tool is used to adjust.

[rhume]

Thank you for the info.

When i took the suspension apart I measured a datum for re-assembly. This was a 205mm measure.

When we had eventually freed everything of and replaced bearings I could only get a measure of 185mm or 235 mm. decided on the lower measure to reduce the ride height a little. On reflection I think I should have gone for the higher distance as I reckon that the suspension had not dropped fully even though we had dropped it as low as it would go.

handles great though

[gazza82]

Fit lowered coils to front ... :-)

[rhume]

Don't think I haven't thought it!!

[rhume]

So Decided to bite the bullet today and re-index the rear suspension to a bit nearer to factory settings. Friend gave me a hand.

Started at 9.15 and by 10.30 we had everything apart. Had re-indexed the ride height and fitted two new shock-absorbers. Homeward straight?? Not flipping likely .

The person at Peugeot who came up with the stupid system for holding in the torsion bars with an offset washer in a groove and a torx bolt needs a good talking to!!. We spent another hour fitting 3 bolts and washers (parts 12 and 13). What a chew on. One word of advice file the edges of the washer down as any burr or damage will means it does not sit into its groove and you can't got the torx bolt in.

never mind all done now.

ride height copy.jpg

[rhume]

BTW the measurement from the lowest point on the bumps stop plate to the back of the wheel arch which is a straight edge was 220mm. The previous setting I had it at was 185mm so raised it 35mm.

[gazza82]

The person at Peugeot who came up with the stupid system ...

I'm sure you will find plenty more .. I think they had a "let's make the simple things as complex as possible" team.

And they seem to employ one of this at every manufacturer ..

Clever ideas like "to change a headlamp bulb, first remove the front bumper and grille", "to replace a cam belt, take the engine out" ... there are plenty more!

[rhume]

What I don't understand is the reason for the whole washer arrangement thing. I supposedly allows a bit of float. But as my torsion bars were a very tight fit with the splines I don't see the point!!

[Rubyoptics]

It's like the washer fluid tank neck 'quick release' system.

"Pierre, zey will need to take zis off to change ze lightbulb, we should make it a quick release system"

"I 'ave done that Girome, and placed the quick release in a completely inaccessible place to compensate for our kindness"

"BRILLIANT Pierre! Let's 'ave a quick glass of vin to celebrate our genius"

[rhume]

It's a bit like my PUG 4007. Aha here's a good idea put all the clips for the pipework for the turbo with the screws facing downwards or into other bits of engine.

Yes I know it's dead easy to fit them like this when you are in the factory but that's no consolation to me when swapping a turbo pipe takes an extra hour of cursing and skinned knuckles.

Mind I did once have a 2.4 V6 Ford Cougar where the only way to get the alternator off was to remove the engine or take the alternator to bits. That was one packed engine bay

[IanL]

That's what happens when an engine designed for a RWD car is mounted transversely (or vice-versa). Prime example my 2.5 V6 Grand Vitara.